Barely known dog breeds

Have you ever seen a beagle? Sure you have. What about a basset hound? Of course! How about a Polish Owczarek Nizinny? Didn’t think so. Its one of many unfamiliar breeds of dogs roaming the Earth and though it has a funny name (to Americans anyway), it is a beautiful creature. There are a great many dog breeds out there that, unless you’re a dog expert, you may never have heard of. Here are a few.

Affenpinscher:

The smallest dog in the family that includes pinschers and schnauzers, the Affenpinscher is a toy dog with a good demeanor. These little guys are very intelligent and trainable and make wonderful family pets. They have a dark, wiry coat and are naturally affectionate towards humans.

Anatolian Shepherd:

The Anatolian Shepherd has a large frame and is considered to be quite courageous. These are strong and loyal dogs that see a good deal of use in the United States as military and hunting dogs.

Basenji:

The Basenji is a medium sized muscular dog that is also known as the African Barkless Dog. They never bark, but not because they are mute; apparently they just don’t want to. Basenjis were originally bred in Africa as hunting dogs. They do not naturally make good pets, but overcome their aversion to humans if they are handled consistently from an early age.

Bouvier des Flandres:

These small but sturdy dogs have the appearance of a sort of terrier. They usually have a dark rough coat and a generally calm manner. They were originally bred as herders in France and today are used in both police work and as guide dogs or assistance animals for the blind.

Central Asian Ovtcharka:

The Central Asian Ovtcharka is a large and muscular dog. It is known as loyal and fearless and has protective instincts that make it an excellent herder and watchdog. Typically they have their ears and tail docked at an early age.

Polish Owczarek Nizinny:

This guy is a medium sized shaggy dog with a long coat that covers its eyes. Loyal and devoted dogs, they make great pets as long as they won’t be left alone for long periods of time since they are known to cause trouble when unsupervised for too long.

Stop Your Dog From Digging In The Yard!

It’s downright infuriating to look out the window and see Buddy digging another hole in the yard. You yell out the window; he may or may not even acknowledge he’s heard anything; then back to the digging. This dog behavior has got to stop.

WHY DOGS DIG…..

Did you ever stop to think WHY Buddy digs? (except to make you mad!). This is the real trick – to figure out why he’s digging in the first place, the motivation behind the dog behavior. Then you can take dog training steps to discourage it, redirect that energy and possibly stop it completely.

1. I’M BORED!

Location: Digging along the fence lines and at the gate.

Why? He is bored and wants to get out for some action.

Solution: Provide more exercise for your dog, both physical and mental. The more exercise the better, according to your dog. A tired, happy dog will rest nicely between great outings.

2. I’M HOT!!

Location: Digging along the edge of the house or shallow “pits,” especially in the heat of the summer.

Why? Your dog is most likely creating a cool spot in the cool under-earth. If under the porch, he’s creating a den.

Solution: Check to make sure you are providing fresh cool water throughout the day and night.

Is there adequate shade to protect your dog from the hot sun? Is good air circulation available or possibly a nice breeze? Or is the space filled with stagnant air?

Provide plant life (trees, bushes) for shelter from the hot sun. Cool grass keeps the ground heat down.

3. IT’S JUST MY NATURE!

Sometimes it’s the breed of dog, not so much the environment. Some breeds tend to be burrowers — hounds, huskies, malamutes are a few examples.

Solution: If this is the case, work with your dog to agree on a place he can do his thing and camouflage it with something like plants or fencing.

4. I LIKE IT!!

Some dogs just like to dig, and dig they will, no matter how much you yell and scream.

Solution: Create and help them with the ideal digging place — a sandy blend with hidden treasures that reward digging at that spot. Having a prepared area encourages the digger to focus the digging to the area you set up in an out-of-the-way place. Remember to keep the area stocked with assorted treats and toys.

TO FILL OR NOT TO FILL ….. EXISTING HOLES

The second part of the story is…..

What to do with the holes that keep reappearing, no matter what you do? Have you back-filled holes dug by your dog only to find them dug again, over and over?

When this happens, the next stage of hole-filling is called for.

You might think this next step it involves yelling at your dog, or rapping on the window. Nope. Are you really going to stand and stare out the window hoping to correct the situation while it’s happening (which would be the only way to really correct it using this method)?

TECHNIQUES FOR “FILLING” HOLES

There are two better techniques to encourage your dog to rethink digging that hole.

The easier of the two is to fill the hole until almost full. Mix the last portion of dirt with dog poo, pinecones, moth balls, or other repelling non-harmful substance. The next time your dog arrives for the big dig, he quickly finds the game has changed. Most dogs quickly change their behavior.

The second method is more time consuming but effective. Cut a section of chicken wire or similar to cover the hole plus 8 inches or more. Dig a hole a few inches deep that surrounds the hole and will fit the wire shape.

Fill the hole and then press wire in place and cover with dirt. Pack the area well, particularly around the wire edges. When your dog returns, the wire will stop his digging progress.

If along a fence line, secure the wire to the fence along the inside of the fence, just a short distance from the ground. When the wire gets to the ground, keep going vertically a short distance underground. Then bend the wire so the bottom is perpendicular to the top (forms an L). Bury the horizontal part underground inside the fence, pointing away from the fence. When your dog digs he is stopped by the wire and his weight on the earth helps keep the wire in place. The result is the dog gives up on that area.

Pretty cool, huh?!

CONCLUSION

We humans see digging as bad dog behavior. Dogs don’t, and they dig for different reasons. If you can figure out why they’re digging, you can put dog training steps in place to stop it. Some dogs dig, that’s what they do. Set them up a space to dig and you both win!

Try these dog training techniques to change unwanted dog behavior. They seriously work.

Dog Training: Teaching Your Dog to Sit

Teaching your dog the “sit” command could be one of the most useful commands you ever teach him. A poorly trained dog is a direct reflection on you the pet owner and how much care about your dog. In fact an untrained dog becomes a nuisance to its owner therefore the dog and owner become unhappy. Whether it’s a puppy or a fully grown dog you can teach them to sit with a little effort on your part.

Have you been putting it off because you think your dog will never be able to learn a new ‘trick’? Don’t put it off any longer. Start teaching your dog how to sit today.

Use some of these tips to teach your dog to sit:

You are going to need some treats; unfortunately this is always the best way to get a dog to do something you want! You can use anything you know your dog enjoys: biscuits, chewy treats or household items.

The main goal is to get your dog to sit when you use the word. One way you can gradually get your dog used to the word is by saying the word when the dog is sitting anyway. Dog sits down – you say “sit” and praise them.

You will also need to practice this every day by doing the following:

- Call your dog and offer them the treat. Let them sniff the treat and get excited first!

- Slowly move the treat until it’s over the dogs head. The dog will naturally move into the sitting position.

- It’s important that the dog associates the activity of sitting with the treat, the praise and the action of sitting. Try to get your timing right.

- Keep bribing the dog and gradually decrease the size of the treat. Keep enthusiastically praising the dog.

- Repeat this exercise a few times a day. Don’t overdo it – you want your pet to think of it as fun.

- Try to practice around mealtimes when your dog is hungry; this will make him keener for the treats.

- Have the treats easily accessible, don’t fumble around – the treat needs to happen as the dog is sitting.

- Don’t push your dog’s bottom down; this won’t work because your pet will associate the action of sitting with having you push his bottom to the ground. If this really isn’t working you might want to consider obedience classes with other dogs.

- End each training session on a positive note.

Teaching your dog to sit using these positive reinforcement techniques will strengthen the bond between you. Consider it time well spent.

Once you have mastered the basic command ’sit’ it should be quite easy to train your dog the other basic commands. “Sit-stay”, “down” ‘heel’ and ‘come are some of the most useful commands. Use the treats in a similar way. Training your dog is an ongoing process. You want to keep praising your dog regularly and never associate anger with the dog’s reaction to your command.

Make use of every new situation to train or put your training into practice. The most important part about learning how to sit – is that the dog sits under a variety of conditions. Sitting in new environments, around other dogs, around new people, when the doorbell rings etc.

Training your dog well is one of the most important things you can do for your dog. Besides having a well behaved dog you will also have an obedient dog. Dogs function as part of a pack – and you are the leader. Your dog will be better adjusted and happier if they know their place in the pack. Your dog is by nature keen to please you. Be a great pack leader and start teaching your puppy to sit today!

Dog Training With A Training Collar Or Choke Collar?

There are a variety of names that go under the broad heading of “training collar”. Some of them are — choke collar, choke chain, training collar, correction collar and slip collar. These are all training collars and are used by professionals and amateur trainers alike.

Training collars are effective tools if they are used properly. Here are a few thoughts to apply when using training collars:

Does it fit? A properly fitted collar makes the collar easier to use and a lot safer for the dog. Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head. The collar should also not be too long.

It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.

* Has it been put on correctly? Put it on right and it will be more effective and less dangerous.

* Is it being used correctly? Don’t use the collar as punishment. Rather, use it only as a sharp reminder to the dog about their behavior. Use short sharp jerks of the collar, not constant pressure. Using constant pressure could be dangerous to the dog.

* Is it the right weight for your dog? In addition to the weight, the size of the links should also be appropriate for your dog’s size and weight.

* Is the collar placed correctly? It is important to properly place the collar on the dog. When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.

If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.

Make sure you purchase a collar that is both well made and strong. This is a vital step to the safety of yourself and your dog.

What do you do if the collar breaks? First, don’t panic! For the fist couple of minutes your dog won’t even know they have an unexpected freedom. If you continue to pretend that the collar is still attached, you can usually get control of the dog back.

If your collar should break, you can usually make a quick replacement by making a “slip lead”. Just take the snap of the leash and run it through the handle and then slip the loop you formed over the dog’s head. Not perfect, but sure solves the immediate problem.

Dog Training and Your Relationship With Your Dog

My best friend is incredible! She’s one of those rare types who hangs on every word you say. She’s content to be quiet when I need stillness, even though she’s one of those high-drive types. All I have to do is call and she’s there in an instant, no matter what she was doing before. She puts me ahead of all her other friends, never fails to make me feel special, and is a blond just like me. But she’s not a person, even though she’s sure she is. She is a golden retriever mix. 

When I brought this eight-week-old bundle of joy home, I didn’t know what to call her. I’m not very good at naming anything, so I usually just observe for a couple of weeks and let the animal name itself by its personality. This puppy’s name became evident in nothing flat: Goldy(yes, it’s a bit obvious I guess). She whirled around the house, jumping up on furniture five times her size, zooming and zipping and totally charming me. She was, indeed, a Tasmanian devil pup. I quickly realized the athleticism of this dog and knew I’d have to find her a “job” when she got a little older. High-drive dogs, that don’t have “jobs,” will certainly find other outlets for their energy and those outlets aren’t usually things you would enjoy! 

You already have a burning love for your puppy, but what is your relationship like? Does it come when you call it? Does it sit or lay or stay? From your first class, at your dog training school, your relationship with your dog begins to change. I will warn you, however, that anything you want to teach your dog won’t come just with a once-a-week class, even if you have the best dog training school in the world. You have to practice with them, just a little bit, every day. 

Goldy was a very food-motivated dog, so the fact that she got food every time she did something right made training a blast for her, all by itself. And this happened every day! Bonus! She made fast friends at her new dog training school, so going to class was fun as well. She got to where she would whine, as soon as we pulled in the parking lot, until I finally got her out of that car.

So now you’re taking your dog to classes in a place they love, and you’re working with them every day. During that time, you’re paying complete attention to them, teaching them to pay complete attention to you, and they get their favorite food as icing on the cake. This does incredible things for the bond between you and your dog. They learn to focus on you, no matter what, and good things will come. They get praised and fed, or praised and allowed to tug on a toy, whichever motivates the dog more, so your relationship can’t help but blossom. 

Ever since Goldy and I started training together, she has claimed me as her own. When my other dog wants to sit on my lap, she’ll push them out of the way to get the best spot because, I am her property, as far as she’s concerned. I do give the other dogs personal time as well, but I have to put her in a sit/stay or a down/stay so she’ll let them come get love. 

She is, by far, the one I can trust the most, not only because of her training, but from the bond we gained through the training. She never takes her eyes off of me, since we began at our dog training school, and it serves us well in the agility ring! 

If you want to forever alter and solidify the bond you share with your dog, find yourself a good dog training school, for whatever discipline you prefer, and go for it. With a little time, money, and patience, your relationship will become a forever relationship. If you do, your dog will turn out to be your best friend too!

Dog Training Tips: Things I’ve Learned About Agility Dog Training

First of all, most trainers require that dogs have completed at least a basic obedience class before proceeding to agility training. This is critical to agility training and, in my opinion, every dog and handler could benefit from a basic obedience class. I learned that I have a food-motivated dog and that she will work her heart out for highly prized treats, not for punishment! There are skills you and your dog will learn, through an obedience class, such as recalls, sit/stays, down/stays, and walking nicely on a leash. Each of these skills is something you will need every time you compete, not to mention day-to-day life with your dog.

The pace of your training will always be set by your dog. Each dog learns at a different speed and, what comes easily for one dog, may not come easily for another. So, be very patient while training your dog any skill. Make it a game. Let your dog take as much time as it needs, without getting impatient or frustrated, to figure out what behavior you want from it.

All tasks must be broken down into small pieces, whether the task is a simple sit, the beginnings of obstacle training, or more complex tricks or agility sequences. If you break the task down to something small, then mark/reward and repeat, several times before making the task larger, you will have success without stressing the dog out. For example, when training an agility tunnel, you scrunch it up to its smallest form. Have someone place your dog at the entrance while you sit on the ground at the exit, with a treat, and call your dog. As soon as the dog comes through that little piece of a tunnel, you mark/reward. Slowly begin expanding the tunnel using the same technique. In just a few minutes, you’ll have your dog going through however long a tunnel you need.

For agility training, once the dog begins obstacle training, there is never a wrong answer. Dogs get confused, and may shut down, if they start being told they’re doing the wrong thing, so keep the training light and never scold for doing the incorrect thing. If the dog doesn’t do what you want it to, you simply do not mark/reward for that action. You just ask again and, the minute you get the correct response, mark/reward and make a huge deal of it. That will make your dog more anxious to give you that same answer again. As you start competing, you might want to use a particular word to indicate the incorrect response, such as “uh oh,” or “oops,” but not with a scolding tone. This will indicate that the dog will be asked to try again but everything is fine between the two of you.

Lastly, always keep the training fun for both you and your dog. Even when you start competing, or have been competing for a long time, this is critical. If you start getting caught up in the competition and title-winning, you might forget why you started agility to begin with: because it’s fun! When the game stops being fun, your dog won’t enjoy it anymore and neither will you. Agility is a wonderful sport and will forever secure the relationship between you and your dog. Run fast, run clean, and, above all, have fun!

A Basenji?!? What is that??

The following paragraphs summarize the work of Basenji dog breed experts who are completely familiar with all the aspects of Basenji dog breed. Heed their advice to avoid any Basenji dog breed surprises.

The dog Basenji goes by many names, some of which include Belgian Congo Dog, Bongo Terrier, Congo Bush Dog, Zande Dog, and Congo Terrier. What makes this breed particularly special is that he is the only breed who has no bark. But other than the absence of bark, this breed will whine and growl like other dogs, and can express his feelings with a unique yodel or chortle sound. The Basenji does have a vocal cord. However, it is believed that the past thousands of years in training to hunt game silently may explain his characteristic quietness. Nevertheless, this breed is recognized for its gentle nature and love of children. He is very inquisitive, mischievous, does not have any doggie smell, and adaptable to most climates. He can be wary around strangers and does not like the rain. He has a number of appealing features, including his curling tail, high set and lying over to one side of the back, his wrinkled forehead that gives him a worried-like look, and his habit of washing with his paw similar to a cat.

Size: The ideal height for the male Basenji is 17in at the shoulder while the ideal height for the female Basenji is 16in. The ideal weight is 24lb for the male and 21lb for the female.

History and origin: This type of breed has been depicted in many carvings in the tombs of the Pharaohs. It is said that these dogs were brought as valuable presents by travelers from the lower reaches of the Nile. The breed almost disappeared from public sight during the ancient Egyptian times until the middle of 19th century, when the Basenji was again discovered by explorers in the Congo and Southern Sudan.

If you find yourself confused by what you’ve read to this point, don’t despair. Everything should be crystal clear by the time you finish.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for Basenji is about 11/2-2 cans of quality dog food (13.3oz size) with equivalent amount of biscuit or 3 cupfuls of dry food. This breed will also enjoy an occasional serving of green vegetables. In addition, the Basenji is a grass eater and should have plenty of access to fresh grass.

Exercise: This breed is a terrific hunter and has a tendency to put on extra weight unless he gets plenty of exercise. He is tireless, fleet-footed, and loves to take regular walks and runs. He is an indoor dog that should not be put in an outside kennel. He would love to just relax next to you and lie down in a corner. He is a great apartment dog as long as he is given enough exercise.

Grooming: A hound glove is recommended to keep his coat in great condition.

There’s no doubt that the topic of Basenji dog breed can be fascinating. If you still have unanswered questions about Basenji dog breed, you may find what you’re looking for in the next article.

List of Hairless Hypoallergenic Dogs

While there are many breeds of hypoallergenic dogs, if you are looking for a dog that is unique, then you may want to research hairless breeds. While many people believe these breeds are made up of small dogs, this is not always the case. Medium sized dogs can also be found. Four types of hairless breeds include: the Mexican Hairless, the American Hairless Terrier, the Chinese Crested, and the Peruvian Hairless. If you are considering buying one of these breeds, you may have to search for a breeder online as these dogs are not as common as other breeds of hypoallergenic dogs.

The Mexican Hairless may be the most difficult hairless breed because there are very few breeders in the United States and in other countries. This breed has a short coat that will not need to be groomed or brushed because it is so short. This means that you will not have to worry about matting, or other issues concerning the care of the coat. The Mexican Hairless is available in different sizes, contrary to popular belief.

The American Hairless Terrier is another breed that is not truly hairless. This breed also has a short coat that does not have to be groomed. Originally, an accident of nature discovered in 1972, breeders successfully reproduced other puppies in 1981 and have been selling them ever since. True to its Terrier roots, the American Hairless Terrier is a small, husky dog that is very friendly and outgoing. These dogs are great for those who are allergic to dogs and who live in small apartments or homes.

The Chinese Crested is an unusual dog because it is available in two distinct varieties. The first variety is truly hairless except for long hair that grows on its paws, head, and tail. Grooming can be done by a professional or at home if you know what you are doing. The second variety called the powder puff and has long, fine hair that resembles human hair. Both varieties are considered to be hypoallergenic because these dogs do not shed too often.

The Peruvian Hairless is truly hairless. This breed is medium in size and is intelligent and friendly to most people. This dog is not for those who have had no prior experience working with dogs. They need to be trained to follow commands and even though they are intelligent and learn quickly, they will not always obey.

Hypoallergenic hairless dogs need exercise, crave attention, and enjoy being with their owners as much as other breeds. You will have to be careful when taking them outdoors because they get sunburnt easily and will require lotion when this happens. Since certain breeds can experience dry skin or acne, you may have to apply skin creams in order to reduce pain or itchiness.

In order to find a breeder, you may have to search online because there are few breeders that breed hairless dogs simply because they are as popular as other breeds. If you can’t decide if a hairless dog is for you, visit those who have a hairless or visit the breeder to learn more.

Training a puppy not to bite and jump on people

You finally have your adorable, cuddly new puppy.  You are happy to have him and he is happy to have a family.  But wait – it’s just the beginning.  There are 2 behaviors you need to deal with almost immediately – jumping on people and biting.

Jumping on people

This is a problem that you or others might inadvertently encourage.  He is so little and cute, that little tail is wagging and, after all, isn’t socialization and getting used to people important?  Of course socialization and getting used to people is crucial but allowing him to jump on people isn’t the way to do it.Imagine your cute, little puppy as a full grown 80 – 100 pound dog.  Will it be so cute when he jumps on people then?  No and it will be dangerous if he jumps on children or small adults because he could easily knock them down.

The best time to take care of this is, of course, when he is a puppy.  When the puppy jumps up on you or someone else, gently place the puppy’s feet back on the floor. When he remains standing there, be sure to praise him extensively.  Give him an alternative to jumping up.  Puppies jump up on people to express their enthusiasm, so it is important to redirect this energy in a more socially acceptable direction.  Try teaching the puppy to present his paw instead of jumping up.  When teaching the puppy to not jump up on people, it is important to be consistent.  Consistency is important in any training program, and all members of the family as well as friends must understand that the puppy is not permitted to jump on them – ever.

Biting

Biting is one of those things that every puppy seems to do, and every puppy must be taught not to do.  Like many behaviors, such as jumping up on people, biting and nipping can seem cute when the puppy is small, but much less so as he gets older, larger and stronger.

Left to their own devices, most puppies learn to control their biting reflex from their mothers and from their littermates.  When the puppy becomes overenthusiastic, whether when nursing or playing, the mother dog, or the other puppies, will quickly issue a correction.

Unfortunately, this type of natural correction often does not occur, since many puppies are removed from their mothers when they are still quite young.  It is therefore up to you to take over this important process.

Socializing the puppy with other dogs and puppies is one of the best and most effective ways to teach the puppy the appropriate, and non appropriate way to bite, and to curb the biting response.

Many communities and pet stores sponsor puppy playtime and puppy kindergarten classes, and these classes can be great places for puppies to socialize with each other, and with other humans and animals as well.  As the puppies play with each other, they will naturally bite and nip each other.  When one puppy becomes too rough or bites too hard, the other puppies will quickly respond by correcting him. 

The best time for this socialization of the puppy to occur is when it is still young.  It is vital that every dog be properly socialized, since a poorly socialized dog, or worse, one that is not socialized at all, can become dangerous and even neurotic.  Most experts recommend that puppies be socialized before they have reached the age of 12 weeks, or three months.

Another reason for socializing the puppy early is that mothers of young children may be understandably reluctant to allow their young children to play with older or larger dogs.  Since socializing the dog with other people is just as important as socializing it with other dogs, it is best to do it when the puppy is still young enough to be non threatening to everyone.

It is important for the puppy to be exposed to a wide variety of different stimuli during the socialization process.  The socialization process should include exposing the puppy to a wide variety of other animals, including other puppies, adult dogs, cats and other domestic animals.  In addition, the puppy should be introduced to as wide a cross section of people as possible, including young children, older people, men, women and people from a variety of ethnic backgrounds.

While socialization is very important to providing the puppy with life lessons and preventing him from biting, it is not the only method of preventing unwanted biting and mouthing.  Giving the puppy appropriate things to play with and bite is another good way to control inappropriate biting.  Providing a variety of chew toys, ropes and other things the puppy can chew is important to preventing boredom, keeping his teeth polished and keeping him from chewing things he should not.

As with any training, it is important to be consistent when teaching the puppy not to bite.  Every member of the family, as well as close friends who may visit, should all be told that the puppy is to be discouraged from biting.  If one person allows the puppy to chew on them while everyone else does not, the puppy will quickly become confused, and that can make the training process much more difficult than it has to be.

Dog Training Using the Reward Training Method

While reward training is commonly viewed as the most current style of dog training, it is actually a lot older than most other methods of dog training. It is likely that the reward training method has been in use since dogs were domesticated thousands of years ago. Early humans likely used some unofficial type of reward training when refining the wolf pups that ultimately became domesticated dogs.

A lot of the ideas about current methods of reward training go back several decades. But what we know as reward training today has only enjoyed its recognition for the past 10 or so years.

Most reward training proponents are not so eager about other methods of dog training, like the leash and collar style. It is likely, though, that the best approach to training your dog will be a mixture of leash and collar training with reward training.

Additionally, a certain training style might work great for one particular dog, but not for another. Some dogs who are not motivated by reward training but do well with the leash/collar method, and other dogs respond well to reward training while leash/collar training does not work at all. Fortunately, the majority of dogs fall somewhere in between.

One of the more popular methods of reward training currently is clicker training. While clicker training does not work for every dog, it can still be a highly useful method of training dogs. The way clicker training works is by teaching to associate a clicking sound with a positive reinforcement, such as a treat. When the dog does something well, the trainer reacts by clicking the clicker, then immediately offering the dog a treat. In time, the dog learns to react to the clicker only.

In reward training the most common type of treat is a food reward. Almost always, complex tricks or behaviors can only be taught using this type of reinforcement. In fact, trainers who train dogs for movies and television use food-based reward training almost totally.

Reward training is used for all types of dog training, including for police and military work. The majority of training in scent detection and tracking utilize a kind of reward training. You can also use reward training in teaching the basic dog training commands.

In reward training a lure is frequently employed to entice the dog into a desired position or stance. The lure helps to convince the dog to perform the sought after behavior of his own volition.

Getting the dog to carry out a behavior without being handled is important. The point of the training, in fact, is to get the dog to execute a behavior without any handling by the trainer.

Once the dog has carried out the commanded behavior, he is rewarded with a positive reinforcement, such as a food treat. Treats are often used in order to reinforce good behaviors, but other positive reinforcements, such as verbal praise, can also be used for reinforcement.

It is important that a reward-trained dog also be a reliable dog. If a dog is trained to do a job, such as police work or drug detection, outside distractions are to be expected. Therefore it is important to train the dog to work and be focused around diversions, as well as to socialize him with other animals and people.

Sometimes dog trainers only train the dog inside the house or back yard, only when the owner is there, free of distractions. It is important to take the dog outside of his comfort zone and introduced to new people and situations.

It is also important that the dog be trained to pay attention to the handler always. When the owner has the complete attention of the dog, he has complete control of the dog. When executed correctly, reward training is a very effective training method that helps to earn the respect and the attention of the dog.

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