Stop your dog’s possessiveness with food

Though sometimes would like to believe otherwise, food is a dog’s first priority, so the first step to successful training is to establish yourself as the leader, this can be acheived by showing him that he can only have his food at your discretion and command. Give him his dinner, allow him to eat for a few seconds, then take his bowl away from him. Use an appropriate sound each time you do so, such as “leave” or “stop”, and keep the bowl for a few seconds.Provided he didn’t show any aggression as you removed the bowl, tell him how ‘good boy’,give it back and allow him to continue eating. Repeat this two or three times during each meal for a few days, then once or twice a week for a few weeks.

Some dogs are never possessive with their food, but you may find if your dog came from a large litter, the only way he could obtain his share of the food was to threaten his brothers and sisters. Finding this action acheived the desired result (getting more food),he may well try it with you.If you don’t sort this out very early on, this possessiveness will transfer to other things, such as bones, toys, furniture and so on, perhaps even to other members of the family.

To stop him being aggressive with his food, don’t give him possession of it! By this I mean feed him by hand for a couple of weeks. Prepare his food in the bowl as usual, but don’t put the bowl on the floor for him. Simply feed him a handful at a time. The bowl of food on the floor almost instinctively makes him want to guard it, so if he is not put in this position of needing to guard, he will not bite!

Feeding by hand also helps if your dog is dominant in other areas. It makes him completely reliant on you for the most important thing in his life,his food,and this will reinforce your position of pack leader, as he is only receiving the food from you and not from the bowl. You can also use this period of hand feeding to your benefit by making him perform some minor order from you for some of the food. Get him to sit first before one handful, or to lie down for the next, and so on. Don’t make him run around for the food as this could cause digestive upsets.

You will find that after a couple weeks of this regime, his general attitude over possessions will change. You can then try giving him his food in a bowl again, and, provided there is no sign of aggression, continue to feed him normally.

For dogs that are food possessive, do not give them bones or toys, as they will attempt to guard these in the same way. Once the food possession has been sorted out, you can try introducing a toy, but make sure the dog understands that it is your toy, and he is only allowed to play with it with you, and when you decide the game is to end, you must end up with the toy.

Stop Your Dog From Digging In The Yard!

It’s downright infuriating to look out the window and see Buddy digging another hole in the yard. You yell out the window; he may or may not even acknowledge he’s heard anything; then back to the digging. This dog behavior has got to stop.

WHY DOGS DIG…..

Did you ever stop to think WHY Buddy digs? (except to make you mad!). This is the real trick – to figure out why he’s digging in the first place, the motivation behind the dog behavior. Then you can take dog training steps to discourage it, redirect that energy and possibly stop it completely.

1. I’M BORED!

Location: Digging along the fence lines and at the gate.

Why? He is bored and wants to get out for some action.

Solution: Provide more exercise for your dog, both physical and mental. The more exercise the better, according to your dog. A tired, happy dog will rest nicely between great outings.

2. I’M HOT!!

Location: Digging along the edge of the house or shallow “pits,” especially in the heat of the summer.

Why? Your dog is most likely creating a cool spot in the cool under-earth. If under the porch, he’s creating a den.

Solution: Check to make sure you are providing fresh cool water throughout the day and night.

Is there adequate shade to protect your dog from the hot sun? Is good air circulation available or possibly a nice breeze? Or is the space filled with stagnant air?

Provide plant life (trees, bushes) for shelter from the hot sun. Cool grass keeps the ground heat down.

3. IT’S JUST MY NATURE!

Sometimes it’s the breed of dog, not so much the environment. Some breeds tend to be burrowers — hounds, huskies, malamutes are a few examples.

Solution: If this is the case, work with your dog to agree on a place he can do his thing and camouflage it with something like plants or fencing.

4. I LIKE IT!!

Some dogs just like to dig, and dig they will, no matter how much you yell and scream.

Solution: Create and help them with the ideal digging place — a sandy blend with hidden treasures that reward digging at that spot. Having a prepared area encourages the digger to focus the digging to the area you set up in an out-of-the-way place. Remember to keep the area stocked with assorted treats and toys.

TO FILL OR NOT TO FILL ….. EXISTING HOLES

The second part of the story is…..

What to do with the holes that keep reappearing, no matter what you do? Have you back-filled holes dug by your dog only to find them dug again, over and over?

When this happens, the next stage of hole-filling is called for.

You might think this next step it involves yelling at your dog, or rapping on the window. Nope. Are you really going to stand and stare out the window hoping to correct the situation while it’s happening (which would be the only way to really correct it using this method)?

TECHNIQUES FOR “FILLING” HOLES

There are two better techniques to encourage your dog to rethink digging that hole.

The easier of the two is to fill the hole until almost full. Mix the last portion of dirt with dog poo, pinecones, moth balls, or other repelling non-harmful substance. The next time your dog arrives for the big dig, he quickly finds the game has changed. Most dogs quickly change their behavior.

The second method is more time consuming but effective. Cut a section of chicken wire or similar to cover the hole plus 8 inches or more. Dig a hole a few inches deep that surrounds the hole and will fit the wire shape.

Fill the hole and then press wire in place and cover with dirt. Pack the area well, particularly around the wire edges. When your dog returns, the wire will stop his digging progress.

If along a fence line, secure the wire to the fence along the inside of the fence, just a short distance from the ground. When the wire gets to the ground, keep going vertically a short distance underground. Then bend the wire so the bottom is perpendicular to the top (forms an L). Bury the horizontal part underground inside the fence, pointing away from the fence. When your dog digs he is stopped by the wire and his weight on the earth helps keep the wire in place. The result is the dog gives up on that area.

Pretty cool, huh?!

CONCLUSION

We humans see digging as bad dog behavior. Dogs don’t, and they dig for different reasons. If you can figure out why they’re digging, you can put dog training steps in place to stop it. Some dogs dig, that’s what they do. Set them up a space to dig and you both win!

Try these dog training techniques to change unwanted dog behavior. They seriously work.

Dog Training: Teaching Your Dog to Sit

Teaching your dog the “sit” command could be one of the most useful commands you ever teach him. A poorly trained dog is a direct reflection on you the pet owner and how much care about your dog. In fact an untrained dog becomes a nuisance to its owner therefore the dog and owner become unhappy. Whether it’s a puppy or a fully grown dog you can teach them to sit with a little effort on your part.

Have you been putting it off because you think your dog will never be able to learn a new ‘trick’? Don’t put it off any longer. Start teaching your dog how to sit today.

Use some of these tips to teach your dog to sit:

You are going to need some treats; unfortunately this is always the best way to get a dog to do something you want! You can use anything you know your dog enjoys: biscuits, chewy treats or household items.

The main goal is to get your dog to sit when you use the word. One way you can gradually get your dog used to the word is by saying the word when the dog is sitting anyway. Dog sits down – you say “sit” and praise them.

You will also need to practice this every day by doing the following:

- Call your dog and offer them the treat. Let them sniff the treat and get excited first!

- Slowly move the treat until it’s over the dogs head. The dog will naturally move into the sitting position.

- It’s important that the dog associates the activity of sitting with the treat, the praise and the action of sitting. Try to get your timing right.

- Keep bribing the dog and gradually decrease the size of the treat. Keep enthusiastically praising the dog.

- Repeat this exercise a few times a day. Don’t overdo it – you want your pet to think of it as fun.

- Try to practice around mealtimes when your dog is hungry; this will make him keener for the treats.

- Have the treats easily accessible, don’t fumble around – the treat needs to happen as the dog is sitting.

- Don’t push your dog’s bottom down; this won’t work because your pet will associate the action of sitting with having you push his bottom to the ground. If this really isn’t working you might want to consider obedience classes with other dogs.

- End each training session on a positive note.

Teaching your dog to sit using these positive reinforcement techniques will strengthen the bond between you. Consider it time well spent.

Once you have mastered the basic command ’sit’ it should be quite easy to train your dog the other basic commands. “Sit-stay”, “down” ‘heel’ and ‘come are some of the most useful commands. Use the treats in a similar way. Training your dog is an ongoing process. You want to keep praising your dog regularly and never associate anger with the dog’s reaction to your command.

Make use of every new situation to train or put your training into practice. The most important part about learning how to sit – is that the dog sits under a variety of conditions. Sitting in new environments, around other dogs, around new people, when the doorbell rings etc.

Training your dog well is one of the most important things you can do for your dog. Besides having a well behaved dog you will also have an obedient dog. Dogs function as part of a pack – and you are the leader. Your dog will be better adjusted and happier if they know their place in the pack. Your dog is by nature keen to please you. Be a great pack leader and start teaching your puppy to sit today!

Dog Training With A Training Collar Or Choke Collar?

There are a variety of names that go under the broad heading of “training collar”. Some of them are — choke collar, choke chain, training collar, correction collar and slip collar. These are all training collars and are used by professionals and amateur trainers alike.

Training collars are effective tools if they are used properly. Here are a few thoughts to apply when using training collars:

Does it fit? A properly fitted collar makes the collar easier to use and a lot safer for the dog. Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head. The collar should also not be too long.

It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.

* Has it been put on correctly? Put it on right and it will be more effective and less dangerous.

* Is it being used correctly? Don’t use the collar as punishment. Rather, use it only as a sharp reminder to the dog about their behavior. Use short sharp jerks of the collar, not constant pressure. Using constant pressure could be dangerous to the dog.

* Is it the right weight for your dog? In addition to the weight, the size of the links should also be appropriate for your dog’s size and weight.

* Is the collar placed correctly? It is important to properly place the collar on the dog. When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.

If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.

Make sure you purchase a collar that is both well made and strong. This is a vital step to the safety of yourself and your dog.

What do you do if the collar breaks? First, don’t panic! For the fist couple of minutes your dog won’t even know they have an unexpected freedom. If you continue to pretend that the collar is still attached, you can usually get control of the dog back.

If your collar should break, you can usually make a quick replacement by making a “slip lead”. Just take the snap of the leash and run it through the handle and then slip the loop you formed over the dog’s head. Not perfect, but sure solves the immediate problem.

Dog Training and Your Relationship With Your Dog

My best friend is incredible! She’s one of those rare types who hangs on every word you say. She’s content to be quiet when I need stillness, even though she’s one of those high-drive types. All I have to do is call and she’s there in an instant, no matter what she was doing before. She puts me ahead of all her other friends, never fails to make me feel special, and is a blond just like me. But she’s not a person, even though she’s sure she is. She is a golden retriever mix. 

When I brought this eight-week-old bundle of joy home, I didn’t know what to call her. I’m not very good at naming anything, so I usually just observe for a couple of weeks and let the animal name itself by its personality. This puppy’s name became evident in nothing flat: Goldy(yes, it’s a bit obvious I guess). She whirled around the house, jumping up on furniture five times her size, zooming and zipping and totally charming me. She was, indeed, a Tasmanian devil pup. I quickly realized the athleticism of this dog and knew I’d have to find her a “job” when she got a little older. High-drive dogs, that don’t have “jobs,” will certainly find other outlets for their energy and those outlets aren’t usually things you would enjoy! 

You already have a burning love for your puppy, but what is your relationship like? Does it come when you call it? Does it sit or lay or stay? From your first class, at your dog training school, your relationship with your dog begins to change. I will warn you, however, that anything you want to teach your dog won’t come just with a once-a-week class, even if you have the best dog training school in the world. You have to practice with them, just a little bit, every day. 

Goldy was a very food-motivated dog, so the fact that she got food every time she did something right made training a blast for her, all by itself. And this happened every day! Bonus! She made fast friends at her new dog training school, so going to class was fun as well. She got to where she would whine, as soon as we pulled in the parking lot, until I finally got her out of that car.

So now you’re taking your dog to classes in a place they love, and you’re working with them every day. During that time, you’re paying complete attention to them, teaching them to pay complete attention to you, and they get their favorite food as icing on the cake. This does incredible things for the bond between you and your dog. They learn to focus on you, no matter what, and good things will come. They get praised and fed, or praised and allowed to tug on a toy, whichever motivates the dog more, so your relationship can’t help but blossom. 

Ever since Goldy and I started training together, she has claimed me as her own. When my other dog wants to sit on my lap, she’ll push them out of the way to get the best spot because, I am her property, as far as she’s concerned. I do give the other dogs personal time as well, but I have to put her in a sit/stay or a down/stay so she’ll let them come get love. 

She is, by far, the one I can trust the most, not only because of her training, but from the bond we gained through the training. She never takes her eyes off of me, since we began at our dog training school, and it serves us well in the agility ring! 

If you want to forever alter and solidify the bond you share with your dog, find yourself a good dog training school, for whatever discipline you prefer, and go for it. With a little time, money, and patience, your relationship will become a forever relationship. If you do, your dog will turn out to be your best friend too!

Dog Training Tips: Things I’ve Learned About Agility Dog Training

First of all, most trainers require that dogs have completed at least a basic obedience class before proceeding to agility training. This is critical to agility training and, in my opinion, every dog and handler could benefit from a basic obedience class. I learned that I have a food-motivated dog and that she will work her heart out for highly prized treats, not for punishment! There are skills you and your dog will learn, through an obedience class, such as recalls, sit/stays, down/stays, and walking nicely on a leash. Each of these skills is something you will need every time you compete, not to mention day-to-day life with your dog.

The pace of your training will always be set by your dog. Each dog learns at a different speed and, what comes easily for one dog, may not come easily for another. So, be very patient while training your dog any skill. Make it a game. Let your dog take as much time as it needs, without getting impatient or frustrated, to figure out what behavior you want from it.

All tasks must be broken down into small pieces, whether the task is a simple sit, the beginnings of obstacle training, or more complex tricks or agility sequences. If you break the task down to something small, then mark/reward and repeat, several times before making the task larger, you will have success without stressing the dog out. For example, when training an agility tunnel, you scrunch it up to its smallest form. Have someone place your dog at the entrance while you sit on the ground at the exit, with a treat, and call your dog. As soon as the dog comes through that little piece of a tunnel, you mark/reward. Slowly begin expanding the tunnel using the same technique. In just a few minutes, you’ll have your dog going through however long a tunnel you need.

For agility training, once the dog begins obstacle training, there is never a wrong answer. Dogs get confused, and may shut down, if they start being told they’re doing the wrong thing, so keep the training light and never scold for doing the incorrect thing. If the dog doesn’t do what you want it to, you simply do not mark/reward for that action. You just ask again and, the minute you get the correct response, mark/reward and make a huge deal of it. That will make your dog more anxious to give you that same answer again. As you start competing, you might want to use a particular word to indicate the incorrect response, such as “uh oh,” or “oops,” but not with a scolding tone. This will indicate that the dog will be asked to try again but everything is fine between the two of you.

Lastly, always keep the training fun for both you and your dog. Even when you start competing, or have been competing for a long time, this is critical. If you start getting caught up in the competition and title-winning, you might forget why you started agility to begin with: because it’s fun! When the game stops being fun, your dog won’t enjoy it anymore and neither will you. Agility is a wonderful sport and will forever secure the relationship between you and your dog. Run fast, run clean, and, above all, have fun!

Chewing Problem – How to stop your dog’s chewing problem?

Many people have begun the task of getting there dog or puppy into a dog training school. There are a lot of aspects that are gone over in dog training classes. Unfortunately, one part of dog training that is not gone over very well in dog training classes is chewing.

It is hard to go over a chewing problem in dog training classes because dogs often have nothing to chew on or destroy while in the class! If you are one of those people who are in dog training classes, but you still need help with chewing, please read on.

This type of dog training can be for dogs young and old. Many people find this part of dog training to be more common in puppies. But older dogs have been know to need this type of dog training because they love to chew things up while their owners are away!

To begin this type of dog training, you must first realize that all dogs chew. Dogs need to chew. So when you begin, make sure you have several things that are ok for your dog to chew on. Then begin your dog training by keeping all of your dogs chewing toys in one location.

This way, your dog will learn to associate this spot with his or her chew toys. You must do this in order for this type of dog training to work. Try to have the dog toys in a “toy box” for your dog.

During this dog training, never spank or hit your dog if you catch it chewing on something it is not allowed to. Instead, for effective dog training, praise your dog and pet it when it chews on what it is supposed to chew on.

It has been shown that dogs respond much better to positive praise and positive dog training. If the dog continues to chew on things that it shouldn’t, verbally reprimand it. Your tone of voice will be enough punishment and is the only punishment necessary for this kind of dog training.

Another method of dog training you can try is to put a taste deterrent on the items your dog shouldn’t chew. This Dog Training chew deterrent is called “bitter apple” and it is available at most pet stores.

These are the most effective means of dog training that will teach your dog not to chew on inappropriate things. If you follow all of these aspects, your dog training should go more smoothly.

Dog training can be a fun and rewarding experience…as long as all of your favorite things aren’t chewed up in the process! Keep calm and be patient to achieve good results.

Use yummy treats when training your dog!

Do you ever wonder how much a dog can really taste? Does it really matter whether you get him the beef liver treats or the turkey liver treats? Isn’t it all just the same in the end anyway? How much can the dog really tell the difference?

Anyone who has a dog knows they will eat just about everything, save the occasional vegetable. I am sure most of you either have or know at least one dog that sits at your feet when you eat. He/she either stares with that adorable slightly pathetic face, hoping you take pity on them and give them a bite, or the more tenacious ones whimper, yelp, and beg. It doesn’t seem to matter what you are eating, the ferocious desire for some of the food is the same. Why should the dog training treats be any different?

I understand some dogs have allergies, some have certain diet requirements for their health, and in those cases it is important which treats you buy the dog, however in the mass number of cases I am sure it doesn’t really matter in the end.

There are however, those people that will insist on only the best for their dog and spend tons of money on the best dog training treats money can buy, the whole time going on and on about how Foofoo doesn’t like the turkey and how she only eats the veal treats-which are probably made out of actual veal. I don’t know about you but this strikes me as being slightly ridiculous.

Treats come in very handing when training dogs and I am sure are a valuable resource, however I am convinced one treat probably works just as well as the next. And maybe Foofoo really does prefer the veal, but the question remains as to why Foofoo was even given the veal in the first place. Dogs may decide they like one treat better than the next but making that decision requires options. I am pretty sure that if simply presented with a treat most dogs would not decline.

List of Hairless Hypoallergenic Dogs

While there are many breeds of hypoallergenic dogs, if you are looking for a dog that is unique, then you may want to research hairless breeds. While many people believe these breeds are made up of small dogs, this is not always the case. Medium sized dogs can also be found. Four types of hairless breeds include: the Mexican Hairless, the American Hairless Terrier, the Chinese Crested, and the Peruvian Hairless. If you are considering buying one of these breeds, you may have to search for a breeder online as these dogs are not as common as other breeds of hypoallergenic dogs.

The Mexican Hairless may be the most difficult hairless breed because there are very few breeders in the United States and in other countries. This breed has a short coat that will not need to be groomed or brushed because it is so short. This means that you will not have to worry about matting, or other issues concerning the care of the coat. The Mexican Hairless is available in different sizes, contrary to popular belief.

The American Hairless Terrier is another breed that is not truly hairless. This breed also has a short coat that does not have to be groomed. Originally, an accident of nature discovered in 1972, breeders successfully reproduced other puppies in 1981 and have been selling them ever since. True to its Terrier roots, the American Hairless Terrier is a small, husky dog that is very friendly and outgoing. These dogs are great for those who are allergic to dogs and who live in small apartments or homes.

The Chinese Crested is an unusual dog because it is available in two distinct varieties. The first variety is truly hairless except for long hair that grows on its paws, head, and tail. Grooming can be done by a professional or at home if you know what you are doing. The second variety called the powder puff and has long, fine hair that resembles human hair. Both varieties are considered to be hypoallergenic because these dogs do not shed too often.

The Peruvian Hairless is truly hairless. This breed is medium in size and is intelligent and friendly to most people. This dog is not for those who have had no prior experience working with dogs. They need to be trained to follow commands and even though they are intelligent and learn quickly, they will not always obey.

Hypoallergenic hairless dogs need exercise, crave attention, and enjoy being with their owners as much as other breeds. You will have to be careful when taking them outdoors because they get sunburnt easily and will require lotion when this happens. Since certain breeds can experience dry skin or acne, you may have to apply skin creams in order to reduce pain or itchiness.

In order to find a breeder, you may have to search online because there are few breeders that breed hairless dogs simply because they are as popular as other breeds. If you can’t decide if a hairless dog is for you, visit those who have a hairless or visit the breeder to learn more.

Dogs With Seperation Anxiety Problems

Separation anxiety, also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior, is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training. Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destroying the owner’s property, excessive barking, self destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation.

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, chew and scratch at the door the entire time their family members are away. Well meaning owners often unwittingly encourage this misbehavior by rushing home to reassure the dog, but it is important for the well being of both dog and owner that the dog learn to deal with extended periods of separation.

How the owner leaves the house can often contribute to separation anxiety issues. A long and drawn out period of farewell can make matters worse by making the dog feel even more isolated when the owner finally leaves. These long types of farewells can get the dog excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off. These excited, isolated dogs often work off their excess energy in the most destructive of ways, such as chewing up a favorite rug or piece of furniture.

Excess energy is often mistaken for separation anxiety, since results are often the same. If you think that excess amounts of energy may be the problem, try giving your dog more exercise to see if that eliminates the problem.

If separation anxiety is truly the problem, it is important to address the root causes of that anxiety. In order to prevent separation anxiety from occurring, it is important for the dog to feel happy, safe, secure and comfortable while the owner is away for the day. It is important, for instance, to give the dog plenty of things to keep it busy while you are away. This means providing it with lots of toys, such as balls or chew toys. A pet companion is often effective at relieving separation anxiety as well.

Giving the dog a playmate, such as another dog or a cat, is a great way for busy pet parents and pets alike to cope with the stress of being left alone.

Setting aside scheduled play times, during which the pet is given your undivided attention, is another great way to alleviate boredom and separation anxiety. Playing with the dog, and providing it with sufficient attention and exercise, is a proven way to avoid a stressed and anxious dog. A happy dog that has been well exercised and well conditioned will generally sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner.

It is important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house each day. It is important to give the dog a few minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave.

For dogs that are already experiencing separation anxiety and associated misbehaviors, it is important to get him accustomed to your leaving gradually. Be sure to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, several times during the day. Doing so will get your dog accustomed to your deparartures and help him realize that you are not leaving him forever. Dogs that have been previously lost, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, often have the worst problems with separation anxiety. Part of treating this problem is teaching the dog that your leaving is not permanent.

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